Does the 12-Step Skincare Routine Actually Work? Esthetician-Approved Insights

The 12-step skincare routine became a viral sensation, popularised by K-beauty and influencers showcasing their elaborate nighttime rituals. But do you really need that many steps to achieve glowing, youthful skin? Or is it just an expensive, time-consuming trend?

Let’s break down the truth about multi-step skincare, when it’s beneficial, and how to streamline your routine for maximum results.

What Is the 12-Step Skincare Routine?

A traditional 12-step routine typically includes:

1. Oil cleanser – Removes makeup, SPF, and sebum.

2. Water-based cleanser – Cleans deeper into the pores.

3. Exfoliator – Sloughs off dead skin cells.

4. Toner – Prepares the skin for better absorption.

5. Essence – Hydrates and nourishes.

6. Serum – Targets specific skin concerns (e.g., acne, pigmentation).

7. Sheet mask – Provides intense hydration (often used 2–3 times a week).

8. Eye cream – Addresses fine lines and puffiness.

9. Moisturiser – Locks in hydration.

10. Face oil – Seals in moisture and supports the skin barrier.

11. Sunscreen (AM only) – Protects against UV damage.

12. Sleeping mask (PM only) – Provides overnight skin repair.

Is a 12-Step Routine Necessary?

The short answer: No, not for most people. aestheticians and skincare experts agree that while layering skincare can be beneficial, excessive steps may actually do more harm than good.

Potential Benefits of a Multi-Step Routine:

Targeted treatment – Addresses multiple skin concerns (e.g., hyperpigmentation, ageing, dehydration). Boosts hydration – Layers of moisture can be beneficial for dry or mature skin. K-beauty philosophy – Focuses on prevention rather than correction.

Why It May Be Overkill:

❌ Skin barrier damage – Too many active ingredients can cause irritation and sensitivity. ❌ Product overload – Your skin can only absorb so much; layering too much is often ineffective. ❌ Time-consuming and costly – More steps mean more products, which isn’t always sustainable.

The Ideal Minimalist Skincare Routine (That Actually Works)

A streamlined skincare routine can deliver just as much (if not more) benefit than an elaborate 12-step regimen. Here’s a esthetician-approved routine that works for all skin types:

Morning Routine (AM)

1️⃣ Gentle cleanser – Removes oil and overnight impurities. 2️⃣ Antioxidant serum (Vitamin C, Niacinamide, etc.) – Protects against environmental damage. 3️⃣ Moisturiser – Hydrates and strengthens the skin barrier. 4️⃣ Sunscreen (SPF 30+) – The most crucial step for anti-ageing and skin health.

Evening Routine (PM)

1️⃣ Double cleanse (oil-based + gentle water-based cleanser) – Essential if wearing makeup or SPF. 2️⃣ Treatment serum (Retinol, AHA/BHA, etc.) – Addresses specific concerns like fine lines or acne. 3️⃣ Moisturiser – Locks in hydration and repairs the skin overnight.

Optional Additions:

• Exfoliate (1-3 times a week) for improved skin texture.

• Eye cream if needed for fine lines or puffiness.

• Face mask (hydrating or clay) as a weekly treat.

Bottom Line: Less Is More

A 12-step skincare routine is not necessary for healthy, radiant skin. A simple, well-formulated routine with key ingredients is far more effective than layering unnecessary products.

Instead of focusing on quantity, prioritise high-quality products, consistency, and SPF—your skin will thank you.

Want a personalised skincare routine? Book a consultation at Second Chance Skin for expert advice tailored to your skin type and concerns.